Sapa, Vietnam

Sapa, Vietnam

HUZZAH!

Sunday, September 28, 2014

Just popping in to share a few links from around the web, along with this photo of a satisfied goat that I met at the Sandwich Fair (named for the city of Sandwich, not because the fair celebrates sandwiches) a couple weeks ago...

In the July issue of Global Traveler magazine, I shared the latest on Beijing's air pollution problems and what the city is doing (and not doing) to clean up its act.

The August issue of Global Traveler included my first spa review, in which I tried something dubbed the "Experience Shower." Just figuring out how to turn it on was an experience.

I'm excited to be joining a group of creative Portlanders in creating a coffee table book about Guatemala missions! The book will be modeled on Brother/Sister, a collection of stories about hope and transformation in Southeast Asia created by some very talented friends. Our team will be heading to Guatemala for a week in February to collect interviews and photographs.

If you read Half the Sky: Turning Oppression into Opportunity for Women Worldwide, check out Nick Kristof and Sheryl WuDunn's new book A Path Appears. Kristof will be speaking about international development with the Chicago Council on Global Affairs on October 15 at the InterContinental Chicago. Details are here.

THE PERSEIDS

Tuesday, August 19, 2014



Once a year, the earth passes through a debris field left behind by the Swift-Tuttle comet. Enormous pieces of grit slam into our atmosphere at 130,000 miles per hour, light up the night sky, and flare out in seconds. Apparently, when the comet's predicted orbit near the sun was off by 17 days in 1992, there was some concern that it might come dangerously close to the earth or moon on its next passage in 2126. Frightening how cameras and telescopes (or photographing through a telescope, which is how I captured the image above) can mislead as they magnify, transforming speeding bullets into baubles.

I like how Annie Dillard put it in her essay on experiencing a solar eclipse: "The lenses of telescopes and cameras can no more cover the breadth and scale of the visual array than language can cover the breadth and simultaneity of internal experience. Lenses enlarge the sight, omit its context, and make of it a pretty and sensible picture, like something on a Christmas card. I assure you, if you send any shepherds a Christmas card on which is printed a three-by-three photograph of the angel of the Lord, the glory of the Lord, and a multitude of the heavenly host, they will not be sore afraid. More fearsome things can come in envelopes."

CITY OF ANGELS

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Photo by Ashleigh Bateman 
The first time I visited Los Angeles, I considered it divine intervention. I was 10 years old, and, like any 10-year-old in 1994, my life revolved around watching Jurassic Park on VHS at least once a day. I dreamed about Isla Nublar. I wrote Jurassic Park fan fiction. And then, one day, I won a trip to Universal Studios for the opening of the Jurassic Park ride (divine intervention, I think, but also the result of taping “Xena: Warrior Princess,” waiting for a code word to flash on screen, and depositing said code word in a ballot box at a local fried chicken joint).

The magic hasn’t worn off. Whenever I go to Los Angeles, I’m still just as enchanted as the weekend when I faced down a T-Rex eight times in a row. Whether it’s the moongazing at Griffith Observatory, the hike to the Hollywood sign, or surfing at Huntington Beach Pier, the city always feels like a new adventure to me.

LOGAN SQUARE FARMER'S MARKET

Sunday, June 29, 2014


Just dropping in to share a few images from my neighborhood farmer's market. I can't believe my good fortune in having moved to Logan Square, whose summertime loveliness almost rivals Southeast Portland's. Right now the Sunday farmer's market is bursting with peonies, Michigan strawberries, and radishes. When I go running through the park in the evenings, it seems as though the whole neighborhood is outside soaking in the summer: quasi-gypsies selling their clothing from blankets, Puerto Rican grandpas chatting on park benches, and slackliners practicing their tightrope act between the trees. Best of all are the lightning bugs, which I'm just now seeing for the first time. Who would have thought you could go 29 years without encountering a lightning bug, only to discover them in the middle of Chicago?

BEHIND THE SCENES IN HSIPAW

Friday, May 30, 2014

If you saw my essay for The Christian Science Monitor a couple weeks ago, you know about my serendipitous encounter with a Burmese bookshop owner in Myanmar's Shan State. But what I didn't share in the articleboth to protect the bookseller's identity and for lack of spaceis this man's fearless crusade for education in the impoverished countryside.

When we asked if there was anything we could do to assist him, he immediately set to action. With the equivalent of $50, we walked to the market and selected hundreds of school notebooks, pencils, erasers, and pens. It wasn't the first time he had gotten foreigners involved in delivering school supplies, and for this the government had forbidden him to travel outside of town. "But I know how to avoid the checkpoints," he said with a grin.

The next morning we met him and a friend and, with the enormous stacks of notebooks balanced precipitously on their motorbikes, set off around the countryside. We sped along the main road lined with prehistoric-looking shade treesplanted by the former prince of Shan State, he merrily called outbefore bouncing our way through the rice paddies to one-room schoolhouses.

Eight elementary schools, two rainstorms, and one flat tire later, we had dispensed of all our supplies. Over curries and flatbreadwhich our new friend insisted on buyinghe rhapsodized over War and Peace. "The way that Natasha and Nicholas grow from children into adults, oh, it is a very good book! My granddaughter is in the seventh grade, and she can't even recite her ABCs. How is she going to read Tolstoy with this kind of education?"

BOSTON IN BLOOM

Wednesday, April 30, 2014


"Whether it is that the faith which creates has dried up in me, or that reality takes shape in memory alone, the flowers I am shown today for the first time do not seem to me to be real flowers." - Marcel Proust, Swann's Way

Some people disparage the smell of "beauty bark," but to me a whiff of mulch is the olfactory equivalent to Proust's tea-soaked madeleine. It summons spring, which in Boston is a surreal explosion of prim whites and dusky pinks. The trees on Commonwealth Avenue fuzz over with apple blossoms, pear blossoms, and magnolia, their petals a collective blur that resembles cotton candy.

Even better are the too-short weeks when the tulips bloom, and the Public Gardens become a riot of fire-engine red, canary yellow, and purple shot through with gold. The best way to experience springtime in Beantown is with lunch at one of Newbury Street's many outdoor patios (I'm a fan of Scoozi), followed by a slow amble down Comm Ave, Marlborough Street, or Beacon Street all the way to Boston Common.

And if you happen to be headed to Sydney, another city steeped in color (mostly shades of blue), be sure to check out my business traveler's guide in this month's issue of Global Traveler Magazine.

A SPACIOUS PLACE

Wednesday, March 26, 2014


I used to hate Oklahoma's featureless spaces, to find the empty landscape almost maddening. But now that I've lived in a place so choked with concrete apartment towers that I couldn't even glimpse a patch of sky, a place so dark and dank that mold was sprouting from the walls, something about the expansive emptiness of the Oklahoma horizon seems consoling. It reminds me of this verse from Psalm 18: He brought me out into a spacious place; he rescued me because he delighted in me.

Oh, and the elegant creatures above? They live at Silver Wind Stables, a little piece of equine paradise owned by my friend Ashley. Look it up if you're ever in town; there's nothing quite as comforting as a horse's muzzle.

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