CUBA LIBRE

There aren't many laws I'm willing to flout, but archaic travel restrictions are among them. In any case, the momentum of Cuba's opening to the U.S. seems to be growing every week, with the American Embassy in Havana reopening this month after half a century. The rapid warming in relations—combined with the fact that travelers haven't been fined for visiting Cuba in decades—spurred my decision to visit for the Havana Biennial Art Exhibition earlier this summer.

From university students to taxi drivers, the Habaneros I spoke with were unanimously enthusiastic about the reestablishment of diplomatic relations. Granted, they also have much to gain from the wave of American tourism that has already begun. Highly educated and ambitious, young Cubans are increasingly joining a new workforce of freelance translators, restaurateurs, and business owners whose salaries are not payed by the government.

"It's human nature to want the opposite of what you have," said Elaine, a 28-year-old Havanan who is saving for a house by working as a language tutor and tour guide.

Indeed, I couldn't help being captivated by the cadence of life in Havana, where neighbors play checkers in public parks rather than watch television and tango along the Paseo del Prado instead of gazing at smartphones. It's a singularly rhythmic place, where music and dance are woven into the everyday. (Watch my video to see Cuba in motion.) I'd love to visit again and again—hopefully next time legally.